The Japan Stop I Didn’t Expect to Love: My Overnight Stay in Hakone

Where is Hakone?

Hakone is located 50 miles southwest of Tokyo, in the Kanagawa Prefecture. Hakone is an onsen town, in a much more mountainous area, than the cities on my trip. It is popular for its proximity to Lake Ashi, Owakudani ropeway and the high potential of Mt Fuji views.

Hakone Day Trip or Overnight Stay?

If you are debating between a Hakone day trip or an overnight stay, I would recommend staying overnight. A day trip is possible, but Hakone is a slow-paced destination with lots of transport between sights, so it can quickly feel rushed.

One night is enough if you main goal is to experience a Hakone hotel, outdoor bath or onsen-style stay. However, two nights is better if you want a full day to explore the Hakone loop, use the Hakone Freepass properly, and still have time to relax.

For me, the hotel was a huge part of why I loved Hakone, so I would not have enjoyed it as much as a rushed day trip from Tokyo.

Getting to Blisstia Hakone Sengokuhara Hotel

I had no bags beyond my backpack, as I posted my suitcase straight to Kyoto where the next hotel was looking after it. Getting a taxi at the station was a whole mission, with Uber’s not being accepted at all. There is a taxi stand which I tried to avoid due to queues, but eventually relented. Luckily the taxi wasn’t too expensive and the view was still scenic.

There is public transport available, and public transport in Hakone is pretty good. If you have a 48 hour Hakone Freepass then any buses you take will be covered provided you have activated it. But it is worth bearing in mind some hotels in Hakone are up steep hills, with the bus stop being at the bottom. So the taxi may be easier, especially if you are arriving with luggage.

My hotel, the Blisstia Hakone Sengokuhara Hotel, was up a little hill, but nothing too bad. I had family staying at Hakone Retreat före, which had their bus stop right at the bottom of a very tall and steep climb.

Staying further out gave me a more peaceful hotel experience, but it did mean transport required more planning.

Checking Into Blisstia Hakone Sengokuhara

Across Japan, I stayed in five different hotels, and Blisstia Hakone was by far and beyond my favourite. I did arrive before my room was ready, and sadly there isn’t a bar, or even a bar within walking distance that was open. But you have a 7/11 opposite, so I went to grab some snacks. 

I arrived before my room was ready, but the hotel immediately felt peaceful, clean and modern. There was a quiet courtyard where I waited for a while, which suited me perfectly.

Once my room was ready, the staff explained the onsen rules in case I wanted to use the facilities. I was mainly excited for the outdoor bath in my room, so I immediately forgot, but luckily they have reminders in the onsen itself.

The Rooms and Outdoor Bath Experience

The Room

As soon as you walk in the room you are asked to leave your shoes at the door. I hate shoes indoors anyway but it helps keep the place clean. The room was much bigger than I expected, with twin beds, a lounge area and a clean, modern feel. It felt like somewhere I could properly relax, rather than just a place to sleep.

I am glad I chose to upgrade, as there isn’t a huge amount of evening activities in Hakone, so it’s the town I would be getting the most out of my room. I went out to check the outdoor bath. It is constantly filled, heated by the natural geothermal waters the area is known for. I could not wait to get in. 

The Outdoor Bath Experience

Although I initially wanted a private onsen, an outdoor bath wasn’t too dissimilar to an onsen experience. The water was a lot hotter than I expected, but the air was cool. The bath was under cover, with a small garden as a view. 

One evening I got back to my hotel just as it began to rain. There was no wind, just a gentle pitter patter that was relaxing. Despite how busy my time in Japan was, this was one my favourite moments, just relaxing in the warm water, with a bottle of wine I picked up in the 7/11 opposite. 

Looking back, I don’t regret upgrading my hotel room in the slightest. That did make it the most expensive hotel of the trip, but even then it cost me £150 a night, which would get you a lot less in the UK.

What I Did During My Two Nights in Hakone

Day 1: Arriving and enjoying the hotel

I stayed here for two nights, the first day was mostly consumed by the arrival, upon which I grabbed snacks, relaxed and enjoyed the hotel. 

Day 2: Exploring Hakone with the Freepass

The next day I took advantage of the Hakone Freepass, which was a very busy day navigating public transport, finding places to eat and trying to explore as much as I could before the cable cars closed.

I focused on the classic sightseeing route, including Hakone Shrine, the Ropeway and Lake Ashi. I didn’t get clear views of Mount Fuji, but the scenery still gave the day a completely different feel compared to the city stops along my Japan itinerary.

That evening though I needed a well earned rest, and again the outdoor bath was perfect. But having the lounge area meant I could relax without feeling confined or claustrophobic. I did venture to the hotel’s guest only onsen, to see how it compared. And as nice as it was I preferred the comfort of my private outdoor bath, so went there instead.

Day 3: Travelling onwards towards Kyoto

After two nights in Hakone, it was time for me to move on to Kyoto. I checked out of my hotel after breakfast, and walked to the bus stop so that I could grab the bullet train.

Using Hakone as a Break Between Tokyo and Kyoto

Hakone is the perfect stop between Tokyo and Kyoto, and I think I positioned it perfectly in my itinerary. When I flew from London, the flight was over 15 hours, and as amazing as Tokyo is, it can feel chaotic. 

Kyoto and Osaka would also be busy, although in a different way. Having Hakone shortly after Tokyo gave me a chance to catch my breath, reset my body and prepare for the rest of my trip.

I didn’t have any luggage besides my backpack, as I opted to forward it on to meet me in Kyoto. I felt lightweight and chilled out. It was the most unique spot on my route. Instead of another city, Hakone was a town nestled in the mountains, and it left me refreshed and ready for my next stop.

I’ve included Hakone in my full 12 day Japan itinerary because I think it works perfectly as a slower stop between Tokyo and Kyoto. You can read more about it here.

Is One Night in Hakone Enough?

One night in Hakone is plenty if your main goal is to experience a hotel, outdoor bath or onsen-style stay. But if you want to properly explore the area, I think two nights is much better.

I would repeat what I did: arrive first from Tokyo in the afternoon, spend the first evening enjoying the hotel, use the next full day to explore Hakone with the Freepass, then travel onwards to Kyoto the following morning.

I would even consider a third night next time, especially if I wanted to use Hakone as a base for a Mount Fuji day trip.

What I Loved About Staying Overnight in Hakone

Hakone was one of my favourite stops in Japan. I loved the slower pace, and the mountain setting. The scenery was a stark contrast from Tokyo, and when exploring so many cities, it’s important to make the trip feel varied.

The Blisstia hotel felt like part of the destination, giving me my onsen experience, and a stay that felt like a blend between traditional Japan and modern luxury. I have been fortunate to stay at some amazing hotels over the years, but the Blisstia Hotel may be my favourite.

What I Didn’t Love About Staying Overnight in Hakone

It is hard not to like Hakone, but that doesn’t mean it had its faults. My main issue is that my hotel didn’t have a bar. Not all hotels will have this issue, and fortunately the room was amazing. But it would have been nice to have a spot where I could get an ice cold beer. 

Transport around Hakone is good, but isn’t anywhere near as frequent or painless as Tokyo. If you are trying to squeeze everything into one day, it can feel a bit time pressured and cause you to walk past some spots.

And it is important to remember that Mt Fuji views are never guaranteed. I did not see it during my trip, and if you go without the expectation of seeing it, then it’ll be a lovely bonus.