It’s been a few years since my last trip to Wales, but I was getting more and more reasons to go back. This came to a head in the spring when I learned about Portmeirion, an Italian-styled village in North Wales. I had a brand new camera, and I thought what better excuse to return.

Some links in this review are affiliate links, to learn more about how we use these, read our disclaimer.

What Is Portmeirion?

Portmeirion is a purpose-built tourist village in Gwynedd, Wales. It was created by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925-1975. Inspired by Italy, he designed this village to show how a naturally beautiful coastal site could be developed in harmony with its surroundings.

Rather than growing over generations, Portmeirion was built around a single vision. The combination of architecture, gardens and its coastal setting makes it feel unlike any other experience in Wales.

What to See and Do at Portmeirion

See the Piazza

The piazza was my favourite spot in Portmeirion, with a giant chess board and pieces in the centre, beautiful flowers in bloom and a small water feature. You were surrounded by vibrant, beautiful buildings. I can honestly see how people are convinced this is Italy instead of the middle of Wales.

Look Out for Portmeirion’s Famous Architecture

One of the best things to do in Portmeirion, is to simply stroll and enjoy the buildings. The streets are a photographer’s paradise, with beautiful leading lines up to an observatory, and winding curved streets that gently take you down to the water.

I found myself stopping every few moments to take photos. The village feels more playful than authentically Italian, and I think that adds enormously to its charm. 

My advice, take it slow. This isn’t a place to sprint through and tick off all the sights. Take your time as you explore, enjoy the little details, and see the village from every little side path and route. Some of my favourite views lay just a few steps off the main path.

Visit the Shops

Around Portmeirion there are a few gift shops, perfect if you want to buy a souvenir to remember your day by. For once I kept my distance, and only briefly popped into one of the stores to look around.

I decided not to buy anything, but they’re worth browsing if you want a small reminder of your day at Portmeirion.

Where to Eat at Portmeirion

I tried to book a table in advance at the Hotel Portmeirion, but I wasn’t able to get a seat. Luckily, we had great weather on the day, and there are outdoor tables on the terrace that can’t be reserved. They are first come, first served, and I arrived just in time to see one being cleared.

The menu was full of seasonal, local produce, which I was looking forward to trying. I ordered a Welsh lamb burger with feta cheese, served with fries, and I also ordered sourdough bread for the table. Whilst my friend chose an item from the kids menu.

The terrace has a beautiful view across the water, occasionally interrupted by a brazen seagull. Honestly, I thought the food was just okay, and I enjoyed the experience more for the setting than the meal itself. The terrace is perfectly suited to drinks or a lighter lunch, but for somewhere as special as Portmeirion, I think I would choose something a little more memorable next time.

Portmeirion was one of the highlights of my Wales road trip, so next time I would book further in advance and try Castell Deudraeth Brasserie instead. A steak in such a grand setting feels like it would suit the occasion perfectly. 

How Long Do You Need at Portmeirion?

I would allow 3 – 5 hours for a visit at Portmeirion. That would give you ample time to explore the village and have lunch too.

We arrived at 10am and stayed through lunch into the early afternoon, which felt like the right amount of time. You could spend longer if you want a sit-down meal or to explore the woodland, but I don’t think most people need to dedicate a full day here.

Photography at Portmeirion

I think most photographers agree that creatively, we can sometimes reach a slump. It can often be caused by exhaustion, especially when we spend long hours on the road driving, or even just days on end stuck because the weather isn’t playing ball. 

I love Wales, and I think it’s one of the most beautiful places in the UK, but long hours on the road and a tight itinerary with not enough food planned, meant by the time I arrived at locations my brain was too exhausted to be creative. So I left with many photos that were ok, but I didn’t love. Portmeirion reset that, the stunning architecture and flowers got me genuinely excited about photography again.

If you’re visiting for photography, I’d arrive early and head around the village before lunch. The piazza, colourful buildings and winding streets gave me the most interesting compositions, but some of my favourite shots came from simply taking the smaller paths and looking back towards the village from different angles.

How Much Does Portmeirion Cost?

Entry to Portmeirion is £20, with the parking included for free. Once you’re inside you are free to explore the village at your own pace.

There are coffee shops, cafes and restaurants inside if you want to stop for food and drinks, although there are optional extras on top of the admission price. 

Is Portmeirion Worth Visiting?

I loved my visit to Portmeirion, it really stood as an example of what we could build with a bit of creativity and vision. If you are doing a road trip across Wales, or are nearby visiting Snowdon, this village is worth the detour.

I wouldn’t say it requires a full day, I think a morning and lunch is the perfect amount of time. I combined it with an evening canoe alongside the Llangollen aqueduct, about a 90-minute drive away, but the walk around the village was a great way to ensure my legs were stretched before the longer drive. 

Things to Know Before Visiting Portmeirion

• Expect hills and steps – the village is built on a slope.
• Booking isn’t compulsory, but is sensible at busy times – Portmeirion officially says tickets can be bought at the toll booth, although it asks visitors to book online during peak periods.
• Dogs aren’t allowed, except guide/assistance dogs.
• Photography is encouraged for personal use, but drones aren’t allowed

Continue Planning Your Wales Trip: