When I booked my flight to Bucharest, Romania, people asked me the same question: “why?”. They know I rarely travel to a destination without reason – there’s usually a big draw that makes me say “I have to see that!” For this trip, the answer was simple: Therme Bucuresti. Europes largest wellness and spa complex.

Just 20 minutes outside the city, Therme is a tropical escape filled with palm trees, thermal poos, saunas, and even waterslides. It’s not just a spa – it’s a bucket list destination in itself. And yes, before you ask, I really did mean Bucharest with a CH, not Budapest. (Trust me, I’ve had that conversation more times than I can count.)

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There are spas all over Europe- plenty of which are in my own backyard in London – but Therme București is special. Not only is it luxurious, but it holds the title of Europe’s largest spa and wellness complex, with entire zones dedicated to ultimate relaxation, zen treatments, and even family fun.

Before this trip, I had only been to a spa one time before in my life, the St. Pancras Hotel in London, sneaking in a little indulgence between Xmas and New Years Eve. I loved the experience, but if you’ve read my other travel stories, you’ll know I am not a man who does things by half measures. So when faced with the choice between another casual a spa day or hopping aboard a plane to the biggest spa in Europe, the decision is obvious. Next thing I knew, I’m up at the crack of dawn boarding my plane to Bucharest with Therme firmly in my sights.

I was in Bucharest for a long weekend, and chose to spend my Saturday at the spa. We grabbed an uber directly from the hotel – it was reasonably priced and quick – but there are shuttle busses if you prefer. Officially the doors open at 9am, but when I arrived a little early people were already being let inside

On entry, you’re given a wristband that acts as your all-in-one pass. it unlocks your locker, tracks and food or drink purchases, and saves you from carrying cash or cards around in your swimwear. At the end of the day you simply scan it at the exit and settle your bill in one go. 

Flip-flops are required when walking between pools and saunas. If you have forgotten yours, you can buy a pair at the spa for an extra fee along with your robe and towel rental. I’d left my swimwear behind, literally the only thing I needed to bring, and was forced to buy a pair in duty free before my flight. I at least remembered my own flip flops, but Therme’s looked very comfortable and good quality, so they’d make a great souvenir from your day. I did rent the robe and towel though and I’m glad I did – the robe was soft and thick, perfect for when wrapping up after a dip.

The complex itself is divided into three distinct zones. Two are adults only, with thermal pools,  while the third section – called Galaxy – is a family-friendly water park packed with water slides and activities. Depending on the ticket you choose, you can stick to Galaxy or enjoy access to all three areas.

The first area I stepped out into was the Palm, a vast pool that stretches both indoors and outdoors. Tempting as it was to dive straight in, I had other priorities – I wanted to book a couple of treatments and have the full Therme experience (the sacrifices we have to make travel writing, right?).

One thing you need to know: you can’t reserve any treatments in advance. At first, I thought I missed something, but it actually makes sense. Bookings are only taken on the day in the spa reception area, which prevents people from reserving slots and then not showing up. The downside is their appointments go quickly, so arriving early is essential.

I headed straight up to the reception desk in Elysium, the wellness area. Even though the doors had only just opened, there was already a queue. I managed to book a Malagasy massage (369 LEI) and, on the receptionist’s recommendation, the Urban Defence Facial for men (199 LEI). Both were an hour long. By that point the earliest slots left were 1pm and 4:30pm, but I was more than happy with that. A quick tap of my wristband confirmed my booking, and I was all set for the day. 

I made my way back downstairs to the main pool in the The Palm. Here you can swim, lounge, or grab a drink at the swim-up bar. The runaway favourite seemed to be the chocolate frappés – I watched travel after tray being whisked out to wating guests. One poor guy wasn’t even taking orders anymore; he was tucked away in a corner, blending frappés nonstop just to keep up with demand. Naturally, I had to try one, and it was exactly what I wasn’t in the mood for more rum.

Step outside and you’ll find more seating, whether you want to stretch out in the sun or float in the outdoor pool. There’s even a clever little door that lets you swim straight through without dripping your way across the floor. The bar extends outside too, though service is usually quicker inside. During my visit, Bucharest was in the middle of a heatwave. The weather was glorious, but without sunglasses I didn’t last long outside. Instead I retreated to one of the many loungers tucked amongst the indoor palm trees, which felt just as relaxing.

When you arrive at Therme Bucuresti, one of the first things you’ll want to do is secure your lounger (after booking your treatments of course). It’s simple enough – just lay down your towel. If you rented one from the spa, you’ll notice a sea of identically monogrammed white towels, so make a mental note of your spot before you wander off. 

With my lounger secured, it was time to explore. The complex has eight different saunas, each with its own theme and temperature. You can spend the day hopping between them until you find your perfect match. One of my favourites was built entirely out of Himalayan rock salt bricks, glowing softly in the hear. Others were designed to mimic a rainforest or offered sweeping views of the pool. There was even one simulating a storm, with constant rainfall to recreate the experience of swimming in heavy weather. Sadly, it was under repair during my visit – but it’s own my list for my inevitable return. 

Almost every hour, the Saunas host special rituals. Staff add balls of ice infused with essential oils onto the coals, filling the room with a fragrant steam that seeps into your pores. Outside each sauna you’ll find a timetable with the days events, so you can plan which one to catch. You don’t have to attend them all, but I would recommend experiencing at least one – its a sensory highlight that makes the visit feel extra special.

Before I knew it, it was time for my first treatment for the day: a full body massage. At reception, I was welcomed with a bottle of antioxidant-packed  berry juice – so even my insides got a little wellness boost before things began. From there, I was led into a darkened treatment room where I could begin to unwind.

I had booked the Malagasy Massage, which uses Katrafay extract from the bark of Madagascar trees, blended with hemp seed oil and cannabidiol. It’s designed to easy anxiety, headaches, insomnia and muscle tension. After a cramped Ryanair flight, it was exactly what I needed. The therapist worked out every know, and I’m fairly sure I drifted off at one point.

An hour flew by way too quickly, but for the price (especially compared to UK spa rates), it was incredible. I left feeling light, looser, and completely relaxed – ready to enjoy the rest of the day.

That healthy start to the day was quickly undone by my next move: lunch. I’d planned to try the more upmarket restaurant in Elysium, but technical issues with their ordering system meant I ended up in the food court downstairs instead. This was the one part of the experience that felt a little underwhelming. The food itself wasn’t terrible – reasonably priced and perfectly fine – but the ordering process was frustrating.

Therme Bucuresti uses touchscreen kiosks, similar to the ones at a McDonald’s. where you scroll through the menu and place your order. In theory, it’s efficient. In practice, there simply aren’t enough for the number of guests, so queues build up quickly. To make matters worse, there’s no clear signage to show what kiosks corresponds to which food counter. You can’t just pick a kiosk and order whatever you want, each one is dedicated to its own type of cuisine. More than once I spent 10-15 minutes in line, only to discover I was at the wrong machine. At one point I gave up altogether after waiting being a large, indecisive family, only to find I’d queued for the wrong section.

When I did finally get food, it was decent enough. I tried a burger first and later a steak, both of which I enjoyed. the real win, though, was stumbling across a quieter cake and ice-cream stand tucked away in the corner. It became my go-to spot for drinks and sweet treats throughout the day.

With some time to spare before my next treatment, I headed back to my lounger to unwind. My friend was off enjoying her own appointment, so I had some time to myself. A couple next to me struck up a conversation, asking about where I was from and how I was finding Bucharest. Unfortunately, the chat quickly took a turn I wasn’t comfortable with, so I made a polite exit and slipped into one of the saunas instead. Sometimes the best way to keep your day relaxing is to remove yourself from the wrong company. 

My next treatment was the Urban Defence Facial. There are plenty of facials to choose from, but I went with this one as it’s tailored for men’s skin and came highly recommended by the receptionist. This time I was led into a lighter, brighter room and settled into a while the therapist worked through a series of creams and serums. The products are designed to deeply hydrate, boost collagen production, and help fight off signs of aging. To finish, they applied cedar oil and sandalwood beard oil, leaving my skin feeling refreshed and beard feeling nourished.

After the hour was up, I rejoined my friend by the pool. Throughout the day, there was aqua fitness classes taking place, and I loved seeing people jumped in to join. As the sun dipped lower, the atmosphere shifted – the pool lights glowed brighter, the music picked up, and the whole place took on a lively, almost club-like vibe. After such a long day of treatments, saunas, and lounging, we decided to grab dinner on-site before heading back to the hotel.

By the evening, the food court was a little calmer. Though I still managed to queue behind a family to find – again – that I was at the wrong machine. Determined to end the day properly, I ordered steak and chips with ice cream for dessert. That’s when I hit another snag: my wristband wouldn’t let me pay. It turns out there’s a pre-set spending limit, which makes sense. It prevents any nasty surprises when you settle up at the end. The last thing you want after at a wellness center is a spike of anxiety at the bill.

The problem is that once you hit the limit, you have to clear the balance before you can spend again. And there’s no way to do this inside the spa itself. Instead, I had to trek all the way back to reception in my robe and pay it off at the machine by the entrance, before returning all the way across the complex just to get dinner. Not ideal, but still easier than leaving hungry and heading back into the city.

After finally eating, we changed and made our way our. I settled my bill one last time, and we called an Uber. It arrived quickly, and before long we were back at our hotel. After a long day of pools, saunas, and treatments, sinking into soft sheets felt like the perfect ending. Relaxed, recharged, and ready for the next adventure.